Gen 1 Owner’s Manual

This kit was designed and built with 3 major objectives:
• Increase performance, dependability, and drivability of the Corvair.
• Be completely reversible
• Cost-effective
Background: Fuel injection has always been costly for the Corvairs mainly because of the Port injection requires costly welding and the manufacture/use of low production parts. The Throttle body was chosen for the dependability and simplicity and uses mostly GM main-line production parts to keep the price low and uses tried and true components for reliability. The dual throttle body has been used before, but was fragmented and used a costly computer to run. Temp control was always a problem due to Corvairs and Fuel Injection due to the wild temp fluctuations of the Air-Cooled engine. We use a Water Temp Equivalent (WTE) method for the ECM to control and trim the engine’s operation. We hope you find this one of the most well thought out, economical and dependable kits ever produced for the Corvair and should provide years of trouble-free service. This EFI system is a DIY system with many pre-made/adapted parts to aid you in the successful installation of your system, but it relies on your skill and knowledge or Corvairs and EFI. If you doubt your abilities, hire an installer or friend/club member to help you with this install.

Theory: Carbs and points that control the Corvair and all motors of that era are a compromise. The Carbs give the best fuel mixture at only certain times due to the design. Distributors can’t compensate for Temp and use flying weights to control the timing… good, but again a compromise. Fuel Injection w/DIS applies the best fuel mixture and timing for that RPM, Load and Temp. Other sensors also trim the fuel and timing, but those are the basics.

What should I expect?: Ease of starting, good all-around performance and better fuel economy. This will not make your worn out engine a good engine. It does not fix burned valves, leaking heads, cracked pistons, etc…. its fuel injection. It maximizes the amount of fuel and spark for the best all-around performance and economy based on external factors which a traditional Carb and points can’t do. It may run a little rich until the O2 sensor (30-40 seconds) goes into closed loop and should start burning at approx 14.7:1.

Just because you can does not mean you should: Fuel Injection will allow you to start the engine and drive very soon after starting, even in cold weather. Today’s engines have close tolerances which allow them to run cold without damage. The Corvair engine was never designed to nor meet designed clearances until after its warm. Yes… you can drive your vehicle immediately after cranking, but is NOT advisable to do so until the engine has warmed and proper clearances have not been obtained.

What do I need/have to purchase that does not come with the kit:
1 ea External Fuel Pump
4 ea 60” 5/16” fuel line
Cut the Throttle to Transmission rod (NA to FC manual)
Misc Bolts/Screws to meet customer desire
Drill the Harmonic Balancer or Order Trigger Wheel
Air Cleaner System
OBD1 Cable (Optional or highly recommended)

Early Model (EM) vs Late Model (LM): 61-63 EM and low HP 64’s did not come with a Harmonic Balancer (HB) and must be added or use an optional bolt-on Trigger wheel. When a HB is used, you must also switch the rear engine mount to a 64 model for the belt to have sufficient space for change, but the timing wheel/harmonic balancer combination will not fit on the FC.

Removing Carb Studs: Remove carb studs by “double nutting” and backing out the stud. You may need heat or pre-soaking with WD or other solvent ahead of time. Use caution and DO NOT BREAK THE STUD. If broken, this stud must be removed and fixed properly for good sealing of the TBI to Head adapter.  Good sealing requires both bolts be secured to approx 15 ft-lbs each

Drill and Tap Temp Sensor: This requires removal of the existing choke rod. This rod can be removed in a variety of ways and left to the owner if you want to remove in a fashion to facilitate re-use. Tap using 1/8″ x 27 NPT and use lubricant to prevent galling of the hole.


Installing TBI Adapters: The TBI adapters are marked as odd and even side units. A “carb” intake gasket is included and installed between the Corvair head and the TBI adapter. The Corvair hard rubber spacer/insulator must be removed on FC models, but required on 140 HP models. Placement on 145/164 non-FC models may be used to gain WOT on throttle if needed as it will elevate the TBI in relation to the throttle actuation assembly. It’s best to install the base gasket with screws already inserted into the adapter to assist in proper alignment. Two (2) hex head bolts are included and the long one is intended for the blind hole. Torque these bolts to 25 ft-lbs and a sealer is not needed. If you feel you need sealer, ensure that it is O2 sensor safe.


WARNING: Fuel components are under pressure (10-15 lbs) and can leak. Keep a watchful eye on all connections and pressure regulator as even new components can leak and will catch fire.

Installing Throttle Bodies: Throttle bodies are marked Driver and Passenger side and installed with the Fuel inlets pointed to the rear of the vehicle. Mounting bolts and TBI gaskets are included in the kit and is best if the gaskets are positioned on the TBI before mounting. This will aid in the proper alignment of the TBI gasket which is imperative for a good seal. Each throttle body has its own return spring for safety and does not require an external return spring. A fuel pressure service port for monitoring fuel pump pressure is located on the passenger side TBI and is plugged using a 14mm. The large vacuum ports on TBIs are available but should NOT be used for MAP sensor as it should be connected to a cross-over tube for less “jitter”. These ports must be sealed before operation as they will leak and cause very high idle and lean operation. Worn throttle body shafts are normal and not a concern like they would have been on Carb engines as they don’t rely on vacuum. A block-off bolt is available upon request for a small fee plus shipping that will replace the GM fuel fitting on the odd side with a 12mm bolt.

TBI Drivers  TBI Base Gasket  TBI Bolts

Installing and alignment of Throttle Actuator: The throttle actuator is secured by two (2) bolts and its mounting is only slightly adjustable. Main adjustments are made to throttle rod by hex head and taking clearance out of the actuator. Side to side adjustment can be made with washers as shims to provide a non-binding actuation. If it’s binding in any way, the adjustment is not correct and must be corrected before going any farther. FC units use a cable for throttle actuation which must be re-routed to line up with the actuator bracket. 140 HP engines also use a different bracket to allow for the secondary port. After alignment, be careful not to over-tighten the bold as breakage into the head will require a substantial amount of work to repair.

Throttle Mech Close  TBI Assembly

Throttle Rod: The throttle rod must be cut to properly contact the actuator at approximately a 45-degree angle and rotate to approx 135 degrees at WOT. The paper template within the kit will show where to cut and weld the components for an approximate fit. Small adjustments must be made with the factory throttle adjusting screw on the throttle rod.

  Component Placement pic

Installing Inlet and Return Lines (Not provided): Fuel Lines should be routed down the tunnel and exit near the front of the vehicle. Allow enough room for the external fuel pump in your run from the pump. Pump should not be placed in the tunnel, but under the passenger side of the tunnel for ease of servicing. Care should be taken to ensure no moving parts come in contact with the lines and allow enough slack for rubber fuel line connection. Rubber Fuel Lines should be tightened, secured and located to prevent leaking or damage.

Crank Sensor Bracket: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING/ROTATING.  The crank sensor bracket allows the crank sensor to read the holes in the crank at the proper angle and out of the way of other components of the engine. This sensor mounts to the Delcotron fuel pump screw location and is slotted to allow for timing adjustment (8 degrees + or -). The Fuel pump block-off should be installed and the fuel pump screw needs to be cut at the pointed end. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN the fuel pump screw as it will crack the fuel pump tunnel and oil leakage will occur. The bracket should be fitted and level from the bottom of the Delcotron. The fuel pump screw should be tightened to about 5-foot lbs and the lock nut to approx 10lbs. Spacers should be used if the trigger wheel option is selected over the drilled harmonic balancer to align the tip of the crank sensor to the center of the trigger wheel.

Crank Sensor Holder

Crank Sensor: The crank sensor should be placed in the bracket and clearance is set with a hex head screw located on the side of the barrel. Clearance can be set with credit card, driver’s license or hotel key and secured in place with a set screw. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN this set screw as it will crack the sensor and make it useless. Broken sensors from over-tightening are NOT covered under warranty.

DSCN0352  Cranks Sensor

Fuel Pump/Tank (General): A high-pressure fuel pump (Approx 15-20 psi) is required to operate the TBI fuel system. The TBI unit has its own built-in fuel pressure regulator that maintains a fuel pressure of approx. 10-14 PSI. GM production vehicles use an in-the-tank electric pump that is reasonably priced, but more difficult to install. Airtex has an externally mounted fuel pump for TBI units that can be located in the fuel line between the tank and engine. You will need to install the 5/16 fuel lines between the tank and engine area. You can use the existing fuel line as your return line and it should connect to the provided return Tee in the fuel neck assembly. Power is provided the Red 14 gauge wire with connector and should be marked as fuel pump.  Another important item to consider before you start is tank condition.  Just because it holds fuel does not make it a good tank for EFI or no pressurized systems as rust is a constant in fuel tank and transfer that rust down the line.  Unless your tank is recently new, we recommend using a tank sealer system, like POR-15 that cleans, preps and seals.  One of the big reasons we can’t sell and warranty pumps is due to rust in tanks that will eventually ruin the pump.

Fuel Pump External: The Airtex E8094 or equivalent should only be used. This series of pump is a “roller vane” type pump. Do not use solenoid/diaphragm type pumps as these are cheaper, but will fail within a few hours of use and will damage the fuel regulator of the TBI unit. A new fuel tank is recommended, but if you use your used fuel tank, it should be free of dirt, rust, and particles as these will destroy the pump. The use of a “non-roller vane” pump will void the warranty of the TBI regulator and will malfunction.

Fuel Pump Internal: Bosch #69238 or equivalent should only be used. A new fuel sock, (Bosch #68001) is also required as any trash entering the pump will destroy it in short order. The sending unit must be modified with a bulkhead connector for the fuel pump and ground and can be accomplished with instructions from some Corvair websites for electric fuel pump conversion. Use of an internal pump is required in FC tanks.

Installing Engine Fuel Lines: The fuel lines are 5/16 steel with double flare ends and the special GM fuel injection ends w/seal. Early kit designs have double flare with nylon inserts and washers to take up the difference in EFI fittings. Care should be taken not to over-tighten the fittings and these have a certain amount of “crush”, but if over tightened, it will have to be replaced if the fuel line is ever loosened again. Normal amount of Torque is necessary to install the fuel lines to the Fuel “T” and normally tightened to where they will not leak. The lines are pre-bent to accommodate routing, but can be bent slightly for ease of installation or customer preference. Starting with Ser # 220 the fuel return line is 3/8 size on the driver’s side throttle body only and will need to be adapted to the size of the return line if 3/8 is not used.  You can purchase new type fuel lines regardless of what EFI serial number you own.


Installing Fuel Return Tee: First Generation kits had a “Clarks Turbo Fuel Return Tee” but only has a 3/16 return line size. This is border-line large enough for TBI pumps, but will require a larger size if using an MPI or higher flow pump due to backpressure. Some have brazed a 5/16 tube “after removing from vehicle” return into the filler assembly because of the difficulty of installing that part. Newer generation kits (SN 207 and above) have a PolyProp tee that has a 3/8 slip-on fitting. This should be adapted to the 5/16 return line by fuel grade hose and clamps. check for leaks after installation during refueling and normal operation.


Harmonic Balancer Drilling: Removal of HB should be accomplished with puller and no pressure applied to the outer ring of the HB. After removal, the attached paper degree wheel should be taped to the harmonic balancer with 0 being at TDC. Ignore the GM factory timing marks during this procedure. This part is very critical as an incorrectly drilled HB may cause your engine to ping, have low power or not ever start at all. See attached instructions sheets C1 and C2. If you doubt your skills in drilling these holes, it might pay you to seek the advice of someone more familiar with machine work. The holes will be drilled at the 10, 20, 70, 130, 190, 250, 310 degrees. Use the template in this kit to mark your harmonic balancer and use a scribe to mark the distance to the end and punch. Brown Injection system will drill your crank sensor holes in the HB for a small fee, plus shipping. We also can drill your unit, have it rebuilt and returned to you for years of trouble-free service. These are very small holes and should not affect the balance of the HB, but we make no warranty to that fact. If you feel that the holes have affected the balance of your HB, we would have the unit re-balanced by a shop or rebuilding facility. The pic showing wrong is also taken about 10 degrees before, so it makes it look even more off.

HB-Degrees  HB-Wrong

** A new trigger wheel is available to that bolts to the front of the HB or pulley and is available at less cost than drilling. This can NOT be used on A/C cars as it replaces the pulley. Check your package for details and current pricing**

Installing DIS Pack. The DIS module and coil pack are a single assembly and are mounted to the head bold to the right of the distributor mounting position. Many original coils were mounted on this bolt and provides a good mounting position for DIS pack. The DIS Bracket has a single hole for mounting in this position and allows enough space for the distributor. If you use a distributor block-off, you can reverse the bracket and it will place the DIS pack closer to the distributor base for a more compact look. Adding of A/C will facilitate moving the DIS to another location within the engine bay. Your wiring harness will have to be adjusted for this new location and an A/C signal wire and longer crank sensor wire will have to be added to harness.

DIS Coil Pack  100_2076  100_2075

Spark Plug Wires: These special wires are already sized for your Corvair with the DIS Pack in the normal position. See the attached pics for suggested routing and ensure you protect the wires from scuffing as many moving parts are close by. Spark plug wires are only available in black.


O2 Sensor Bung: Welding of the bung should be accomplished where the sensor will remain at least level or higher plane with ground to prevent accumulation of moisture in the sensor. On all exhaust systems, it is recommended that it be placed within a few inches of the exhaust log on the driver’s side. Choose a location that the sensor not to bump or hit other components during suspension travel. The O2 sensor must be close enough to the hot exhaust stream to produce feedback even during cold days at idle. Moving the sensor too far away from the exhaust log or exhaust leaks will cause inaccurate readings and may damage the engine. (lean condition).

O2 Sensor: Your O2 sensor should start producing signal within 60 sec of starting and should be located within a few inches of the driver’s side exhaust log. This sensor has the GM connector should be connected to the matching O2 sensor plug on the wiring harness. Use of heated O2 sensors have been discontinued, but if you require/desire a Heated O2 sensor, we have them for a reasonable cost.

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): The VSS is a flying magnet/reed switch type. The VSS produces pulses to indicate speed to the ECM and the ECM uses these pulses to adjust idle, enter cruise mode for fuel savings and various other settings. The VSS is not required for use, but will generate error code and the engine will not be at optimal performance. The two (2) magnets are placed on the drive shaft 180 degrees apart, glued with epoxy and wrapped with electrical tape until cured. The bracket is tack welded to the rear wheel support where the switch will align with magnets and the distance from the magnets is adjusted with the 2 locknuts. ¼” (.250) clearance is required for best operation, but should not contact the magnets as damage to sensor will occur.


Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor: The IAT sensor helps the engine control ping by adjusting timing based on the temp of the air entering the combustion chamber. This sensor is usually placed within the intake air stream for best results but can be located to best suit the customer as long as the area reflects ambient air temps.

IAT Sensor

Temp Sensor: The temp sensor is located on the passenger/front side of the engine in the choke hole location. The sensor is connected to a ring and resistor which is then plugged into the wiring harness. The ring and resistor is calibrated for the temp sensor and replacement should be of the same type and resistance. The ring is connected to the top of the sensor by nut. Use “Loctite” on the sensor ring nuts will keep them from loosening in the future and causing “bucking/surge” issues. BE CAREFUL INSTALLING THE RING AS YOU CAN OVER-TIGHTEN THE NUT AND DAMAGE THE TEMP SENSOR.

Temp Sensor

Optional Knock Sensor and Adapter (NOT INCLUDED WITH KIT): Proper timing of engine is critical to eliminate ping and prevent damage to engine components. This system can be equipped with a knock sensor which will retard timing up to 6 degrees when ping is detected. It will NOT detect all knocks/pings and will sometimes trigger from a false knock if you have excess engine noise. The placement behind the passenger side TBI and a good “all-around” location for the sensor, but may increase effectiveness if moved around in some engines. You can also add an additional knock sensor and have 2 sensors on this system for better detection. We have the primary placed at #5 piston location and the secondary at the #2 piston location, but it will take an additional adapter. This system is designed for the OBD1 type KS which reads approx 3300 ohms. OBD2 KS reads approx 100k Ohms and will cause knock sensor failure on the DTC (Code) and cause an SES light event. Knock sensor adapter has a “T” stamped into the adapter to indicate “TOP”.

ECM: Under ECM control, the fuel pump will operate for 5 seconds when the ignition is turned on. It will resume operating when you start to crank the engine, and continue running when the engine starts. The GM ECM is a “smart” computer, and as long as the battery feed is connected, it will improve its driving calibration while operating “closed loop”. Normally the engine will go closed loop after the oxygen sensor reaches 600 deg F. Whenever the battery power feed is disconnected, the computer will lose its memory, and your vehicle will not drive as well for a while until the learned calibration is restored by driving. With all of the above connections made, and 12 PSI of fuel pressure, your vehicle should start right up.

Service Engine Soon Light: You will need to purchase a suitable 12V mini-bulb and socket for a “Check Engine” light (not included in kit). This will be connected permanently to the wires marked as such near the ECM. The “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon” light should be mounted where it is visible to the driver or mounted in the engine bay for checking. It will come on whenever the ignition is turned on with the engine not running. It should remain on while cranking, and it should go off when the engine starts. If it comes back on in a short time, it means one of the sensors or systems is malfunctioning, and the ECM has stored a trouble code to tell you where to look. See the attached trouble codes for assistance. You can make a jumper to tie the Oil/Temp circuit to the SES circuit for ground will illuminate that light in your dash, but you need a disconnect to determine if you have oil/temp rather than ECM code.

Wiring Harness: Your wiring harness has been produced using all new parts and all connections have been soldered or using GM/Packard crimp tools and connectors.  Ends have been marked with stick-on tags to add-in installation.  Relays and relay holders are 30/40 amp 5 pin standard and available at any parts store electrical shelf.  If you remove the relay for test, etc… pay particular attention when re-inserting the relay not to push the relay connector from the bottom of connector housing with may cause failure or intermittent failures.


Battery wire: The Red 14 AWG wire must be connected to a fused 12VDC constant source

Switched wire: The pink/orange 18 AWG wire marked “switched 12V” should be connected to a switched (12-V with key on and 0-V with key off). If you use the existing resistor coil wire, you must tap very close (within 2″) to prevent voltage reduction.

Ground wires: Two (2) Ground ring terminals are provided for grounding at the rear engine at the #6 piston location.

Zero and Balance Throttle Bodies:  Disconnect throttle rod on the passenger’s side and unscrew idle-stop until removed on the passenger side.  Back off Idle screw-on driver’s side until it no longer touches idle stop.  This is base zero on both throttle bodies and is the alignment point.  Adjust the throttle rod where both TBIs stay at “base zero.  Adjust the driver’s side idle-stop approx 3/16” that will support running during idle.

Adjusting Idle after installation (Without Tuner Pro):  Zero and Balance Throttle bodies as stated above first.  Turn off the engine and leave the ignition key in the “Off” position. Unfold a paper clip and bend it into a “U” shape. Push the ends of the paper clip into the “A” and “B” terminals of the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) connector, also called the diagnostic connector. This connector is the black plastic rectangular connector close to the ECM. The “A” and “B” terminals are located on the top right of the connector. Turn the switch to the on position (Do not crank) and wait 10 seconds, this should set the IAC motors at 0 (closed) position. Turn the key off and Unplug both IAC connectors located on the left side of each throttle body. Start the engine. Insert a T-30 size Torx driver into the Idle adjustment screw on the driver’s side TBI. Turn the screw to adjust the idle speed to 750 RPM +/- 50 RPM. Turn off the engine, disconnect ground from battery and reconnect the both IAC connectors. Reinstall the air cleaner and remove the paper clip from the ALDL connector. Reconnect the battery ground terminal after 5 minutes. This will delete any saved data in the ECM, but will require a “relearning” time. test drive the vehicle. If you have the OBD-1 Cable, connect system and open Tuner-pro, Adjust the idle for the IAC counts to be within 1-15 at idle with no load (Neutral), disconnect, drive/test.

Adjusting Idle after installation (Tuner Pro):  Zero and Balance Throttle bodies as stated above first.  Connect tuner pro, start engine and run to obtain operating temp (175f or above) and desired idle (750 RPM). Turn idle screw to obtain between 1-8 on the IAC control counts.  If your idle screw is adjusted high, the IAC count will be 0, too low and the IAC count will be high.  After obtaining between 1-8 IAC counts, have an assistant hold brakes and place in “D” if automatic to ensure IAC motors keep the engine at idle (IAC counts in “D” will average between 15-25) but may differ based on the condition of the engine.  If you can’t get the idle to 750 RPM or IAC counts, it may indicate a vacuum leak, poor engine condition, etc.

Timing too high outside of manual adjustment: Because each engine is different, timing can be adjusted by sliding the crank sensor to the left or right. If your engine pings after sliding the crank sensor all the way to the left (retard), disconnect the knock sensor. Call Technical support with your results for possible replacement chip. To change the FPC, watch the youtube video and be very careful not to force chip or bend its pins. If any of these pins are bent, they will not contract properly and the unit will not run. We do not recommend constant switching of these chips as they are very fragile and will break after a few replacement cycles.

A/C Option: This ECM supports A/C operation and is a sensor wire which will tell the computer to increase idle due to load when A/C is switched on. This option is a special order kit and contains a longer DIS to crank sensor wire, and an ECM to A/C power sensor wire. DIS brackets for the A/C are not available and is the responsibility of the purchaser.  If you plan to use A/C, you must drill out your harmonic balancer and the timing wheel will not fit.

Forward Control: The FC’s had a low profile adapters and a modified throttle actuator. You will be required to relocate the throttle cable and attachment screw which will require light drilling. If you have an automatic FC, you will also have to cut your throttle to transmission rod. FCs will need to be converted to an “in-tank internal” pump as it may not siphon the fuel from the tank and destroy the pump. FC’s will also use the EM VSS which is directly connected to the differential. You will need the Low Profile Air Cleaner system as conventional systems will not adapt.  If you use a harmonic balancer on your engine, you will not be able to use the bolt-on timing wheel as fit becomes an issue.  The timing wheel will work on the pulley, but will NOT use the spacer provided in timing wheel kit.

Technical Service Bulletins: Check the website at

Disconnect battery power (Neg cable)
Install modified Harmonic Balancer
Install exhaust bung
Install Injection Fuel Lines
Remove Choke assembly on right head
Mount the ECM, ALDL connector on the driver’s side over the fender well.
Install wiring harness over the engine.
Drill and Tap Choke hole with 1/8″ x 27 NPT
Install ETS (Engine Temp Sensor)
Install Extra Thick Carb gaskets
Install Carb Spacer on 140 HP Engines (Can be installed on all except FC for more WOT)
Install TBI Adapters
Install Adapter to TBI gaskets
Install TBIs
Install Ignition Coil Pack
Install Knock Sensor Adapter and Knock Sensor at #5 plug position (Position out of way of crossover tube) *Optional
Install Adjustable Crank Sensor Bracket
Install Crank Sensor (Adjust .30 to .60)
Install Crank Sensor to DIS wire
Install VSS -Late (must be tack welded to rear)
Install VSS -Early (Goes between Diff and Speedo Cable)
Connect the Green wire to VSS
Install Main Ground wires and DIS ground cables
Connect all sensors.
Connect the large ground terminal at the left rear of the engine compartment.
Connect a 14 gauge (Yellow to Red) wire from the harness to your electric fuel pump.
Connect the 14 gauge (Red) wire to a full-time fused 12 Volt Battery
Connect the 14 gauge (pink/orange) wire to the 12V Switch (12V when key is on)
CES/SES wire is ground for small warning lamp
(Optional) A/C wire is a 12V signal wire to adjust Idle (does not turn on/off AC)
(Optional) WBO2 wire is for monitoring only

Idle: 750 – Balance TBIs by using “just closed”, adjust throttle rod between the TBIs and then open idle screw (Torx-30) until 0-5 counts are achieved in Neutral.
Spark Plugs: .35-.40 gap
Timing: Adjust to no-knock/ping can be heard under your driving conditions and fuel.
Fuel: Premium is recommended for all Corvairs, but mid-grade may give good performance at lower cost.


Check Timing with a Timing Light: During warm idle, GM mark on harmonic balancer should align with bolt within 6 degrees either side. Timing will be jumping back and forth approx 6 degrees as the ECM using the timing to assist the IAC motors to maintain idle speed. Center of bolt is approx 26 degrees and would emulate a running distributor w/vacuum advanced connected.

Normal Readings/observations to be used as a guide
• Knock Sensor – 3300ohms to 4500ohms (Info provided by Tom Murphy)
• Timing – Approx 20 degrees at idle
• MAP Sensor KPA – 50 @ idle out of gear 60 in drive (+-7) (you may have to have computer & Diag Cable to get readings)
• Engine Temp Cold – approx 110 degrees
• Engine Temp Hot – approx 220 degrees
• Intake air temp sensor – Ambient + 10-20 degrees
• Fuel pump will run for 5 seconds after key on
• Fuel pump pressure for TBI is 9-13 lbs
• Crank sensor to Harmonic Balancer .030″-.050″
• VSS to Magnet – 1/4″ (late model only)

Troubleshooting (EFI system only):

We recommend an OBD-1 scanner or a Laptop running Tunerpro software (Free) and a USB Diagnostic Cable before you start troubleshooting!!! It will drastically reduce your troubleshooting time. MOST ISSUES OF THE EFI ARE CAUSED BY VACUUM LEAKS OR LOW COMPRESSION. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE PASSENGER SIDE TBI TO ENSURE PROPER SEAL AT THE TBI TO ADAPTER GASKET. Adapter bolt holes can be filled with “Right Stuff” or suitable gasket sealer if a leak is encountered. Silicone tends to break down with extended fuel presence and is not recommended.

Engine will not start:
• Does ECM have Power? Switched and battery?
• Do Relay’s Click and transfer power? (Use voltmeter lead under relay housing)
• Does the Fuel Pump run for 5 Seconds then turn off?
• Does the fuel pump have a minimum of 10lbs of pressure?
• Check Crank Sensor
• Does the DIS spark when turned over?
• Temp Sensor disconnected/failure
No Power to ECM: (All power to ECM, Injectors, and DIS are powered by relay after energized by switch 12V)
• Check Relay system
• Check Relay ground
• Check switch power and ground to relay system
• Check 12V Battery to Relays
• Use jumper to Test power with relays removed
Hard Starting (Eventually Starts/runs):
• Fuel Pump Failure – Check Static Pressure
• Fuel Pressure Regulator Failure (Check running Pressure
Rough Idle:
• MAP Sensor disconnected (also check vacuum line)
• 1 of the 2 injectors disconnected
Extreme Rough Idle:
• ECM Eprom loses or ECM not connected well.
• Mis-drilled Harmonic balancer (low timing)
High Idle:
• Vacuum Leak
• IAC motor malfunction
No Power when Accelerator is pressed:
• TPS disconnected
• MAP sensor disconnected/malfunction
• Low fuel pump pressure (less than 7 lbs) – Check at service port
• Mis-drilled harmonic balancer (low Timing)
Idle too low when coasting to stop (Manual Trans):
• No VSS Signal
• Check Wiring/Magnets/Reed switch
Appears to be running extremely rich:
• Low MAP sensor vacuum
• Engine Temp sensor failure/not connected (If engine not reaching operating temp (>180f), remove the in-line resistor)
• High fuel pressure/Return line blocked/Lines Reversed
• Timing low
My engine will not turn off when key off position is selected:
• Relay is being powered through “Gen” light and needs Diode installed

Brown Injection Systems, LLC. assumes no responsibility for the function or suitability to task of any kit or parts. This kit and parts are DIY (Do it yourself) parts to aid you in the installation of fuel Injection of the Corvair. Brown Injection Systems, LLC. Warranties this product against manufacturing defects for the period of 90 days from date of shipping. This warranty covers all parts, but does not cover outside labor to diagnose or repair without specific prior approval from Brown Injection Systems, LLC. This warranty does not cover any failures caused by misuse, accidents, or shipping incidents. Warranty failures will be repaired or replaced at the discretion of Brown Injection Systems, LLC. and has the final decision. Any damages that may have occurred during shipping should be reported immediately to the shipper and not Brown Injection Systems, LLC., Inc. Brown Injection Systems, LLC is not responsible for any damages to equipment and possible liability injury that could result from the use of the product. Brown Injection Systems, LLC. Maximum total liability under any conditions is the repair or replacement of the product.

PART TROUBLESHOOTING: If you feel a part is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced, we will do so with the following guidelines: 1) Troubleshooting is provided for 90 days after shipping date, 2) Send part to us, we will test and if part if found defective, we will give you a credit for future parts purchase at the lowest shipping rate (FedEx) to us. If part is not found defective, you will be invoiced for actual shipping costs incurred by us.

PRODUCT RETURN POLICY:  Most products can be returned for credit within 30 days of shipping. All returns must be as new for maximum credit and free of modification and scratches.  A 15% restocking charge will apply to any used returned components in good condition.  All returns shipping must be prepaid.

TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE:  Technical assistance over the telephone can be obtained from Brown Injection Systems, LLC. at 864-617-1776 between the hours of 9:30 AM and 6:00 PM Eastern Standard Time. We may be assisting others, so leave a message and you will receive a callback.

This fuel injection system is designed for off-road use only.

Revised: June 2016