Read is all.. everything is important.
Red is a safety/danger warning
Blue is for really important that will save you time if followed
Use of generators is discouraged as the alternator provides cleaner, less noise, and steadier power for the EFI system. If you plan to use a generator, it is highly recommended to install a power conditioner (capacitor box) inline to minimize the power spikes. One wire alternators (Converted LM) are easily obtainable and at swap meets and other Corvair members/vendors. Early model swaps will require a new Delcotron and Alternator. On late models (1965-1960) cars, the ECM/Relay panel is designed to be mounted at the old external regulator location. Remember to add a diode on the gauge side of the alternator to prevent a”running-on” condition due to feedback through the bulb.
The Corvair EFI installation is simple if taken in small areas and verify each operation as you install.
Remove Carb System
Modify Fuel Tank to Accept Internal pump
Install Fuel System (Tank to Engine Bay)
Disconnect battery power (Neg cable)
Install modified Harmonic Balancer/Timing wheel
Install exhaust bung
Install Injection Fuel Lines
Remove Choke rod on passenger side head
Mount the ECM on the drivers side firewall.
Install wiring harness over engine.
Install ETS (Engine Temp Sensor)
Install Carb Spacer and Gaskets
Install Ignition Coil Pack/Distributor
Install Crank Sensor Bracket
Install Crank Sensor (Adjust .30 to .60)
Connect Crank Sensor wire
Install Main Ground wires and DIS ground cables
Connect all sensors.
Connect the large ground terminal at the left rear of engine compartment.
Connect a 14 gauge (Red) wire from the harness to your electric fuel pump.
Connect the 14 gauge (Red) wire to a full-time fused 12 Volt Battery
Connect the 16 gauge (orange) wire to the 12V Switch (12V when key is on)
(Optional) WBO2, Idle Air Control Valve
Check with Tuner Studio.
Safety: Have a fire extinguisher or other items handy for your safety when working with fuel. Gasoline is very flammable and can get out of hand very quickly. Minimize the use of rubber hose as it does not resist fire or abrasion. If you are not comfortable doing your fuel line work, you may want to find someone more experienced to help. You may lose your car or even your life…. so think about safety in all aspects of installation, testing, repair and driving.
Remove Carb System: Before removing your system, make sure that your engine is pointed to #1 plug wire position. This will aid in the installation and ensure a quick and easy start after installation. You must remove the Carbs, Fuel Lines, round fuel pump and fuel pump rod. (take the Linkage off also and lay aside as you will reuse these items). Do not remove the inside Carb stud as it needs no adjustment. The outside stud will need 1/2″ removed from the bottom (course threads) to in sure proper fit of the throttle body.
Tank/Return Line Condition: You must first ask yourself….. and be honest about the condition of your tank. If your tank has rust and garbage, these items will go through the pump and destroy it…. period. If your tank is not in good shape or is suspect, remove tank, have it cleaned or install a new one. Corvair tanks are over 50 years old and most have rust and is recommended that tank is removed and cleaned. This will put your Corvair on the side of the road and one of the last things you want to scrimp on. The 68/69 and Turbos have a return line already built in, but is very restrictive due to its small size. We recommend replacing the return line with 5/16″ Steel tube.
Fuel Pumps: Before you start, You must decide which method of fuel delivery is right for you. They are 3 fuel system methods:
- Fuel Pump in Tank: (most difficult, but quiet and low failure rate)
- External High Pressure pump: (Pump under passenger floor) Noisier than all others
- External 2 Pumps: One (1) low pressure pump under passenger floor and One (1) high pressure pump behind firewall area (above differential/starter area). This allows the repair or replacement of pumps without removing tank and also has a filter between the low and high pressure pumps for high pressure pump protection.
We recommend using an internal in-tank pump due to noise and reliability concerns.
Fuel Pump Internal: Bosch #69225 or equivalent should only be used. A new fuel sock , (Bosch #68001) is also required as any trash entering the pump will destroy it in short order. The sending unit must be modified with a bulkhead connector for the fuel pump and ground and can be accomplished with instructions from some Corvair websites for electric fuel pump conversion. This bulkhead connector from Revolution Electronics is recommended for an easy conversion.
Fuel Pump External: The Airtex E2000 or equivalent should only be used. This series of pump is a “rollervane” type pump. Do not use solenoid/diaphragm type pumps as these are cheaper, but will NOT provide the pressures needed that a HP pump produces. A new fuel tank is recommended, but if you use your used fuel tank, it should be free of dirt, rust and particles as these will destroy the pump. You can use the diaphragm type pump as a suction pump and then to the E2000 high pressure pump. We do not recommend external pumps due to noise.
Installing Engine Fuel Lines: The fuel lines to the TBIs are 1/4″ steel with double flare ends and connect to our fuel injector adapter. Normal amount of Torque is necessary to install the fuel lines to the Fuel “T” and normally tightened to where they will not leak. ALWAYS use fuel line wrenches and proper tools to prevent fuel leaks. The lines are pre-bent to accommodate routing, but can be bent slightly for ease of installation or customer preference.
The fuel return 5/16″ Steel tube must be ran regardless of system chosen from the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) to the tank neck Nozzle. It is recommended to remove the fuel inlet nozzle *neck”, braze in a 5/16″ steel tube (2″ in length) and attach to the return line. An alternate way would to drill and install grommet with fitting as as it will not require brazing, but the neck must still be removed. Excess fuel will flow from FPR to tank to be recycled through system. Line must be brazed in or some other leak proof way of rerouting fuel back to tank in a manner that allows for reassembly of the nozzle back into the Corvair through the fuel door/slot opening. DO NOT PERFORM ON CORVAIR – IT MUST BE REMOVED.
The main fuel line can be reused as long as rust is not an issue and should be replaced if you are unsure. It connects to the Fuel pressure regulator Inlet marked in yellow. You will have to attach a rubber hose between the Inlet and your line to your tank. We have a barbed fitting that you will attach the fuel line too, but you may need to put a “bump” and use a worm clamp on your line to insure it does not slip off under high pressure. The last item to connect is the fuel pump power feed to prevent accidental fuel pump during testing and TPS Calibration.
USE ONLY HIGH PRESSURE EFI RUBBER LINE. All others will fail and when they do fail you will have 58 lbs of pressured gas spraying on the exhaust system. This is one of the last things you want to “Cheap out” on as you will lose your car and maybe something more valuable.
Install the Throttle Body Units: Use gaskets for a good seal along with the insulator on both sides as the linkage will “bottom out” on engine tins if not installed. You should install the thin gaskets (not thick) along with the insulator as the thickness of these are pre-engineered on the Corvair for linkage height. The outside stud needs to be “shortened” as not to stick to high and interfere with the installation of the TBIU. Do not mount the driver’s side TBI until an initial TPS calibration has been performed.
Install Fuel Lines: You may need to slightly bend 1/4″ fuel lines to fit to injectors and for installer preference. The 1/4″ fuel lines connect to a 5/16 Tee that exits out the front of the engine through the existing fuel line route. Mount the fuel pressure regulator (FRP) on the 5/16″ to 3/8″ x 6″ long steel fuel line provided behind the firewall outside the engine bay. The FRP using a slip-on/quick-connect system is used and should not be installed until after all lines have been installed. You will need a special tool to remove the line from the FPR and available at all FLAPS. You can connect rubber hoses directly to the FPR (In and Return) with properly sized worm clamps as it has a bump in the line. You can also install quick connect to fuel line connectors at additional cost. Use properly sized fuel line wrenches when connecting lines to TBIU and test under pressure before starting engine. You can temporarily mount the driver’s side TBI for line routing, but it will need to be removed for calibration…Do not tighten fuel line to the drivers side TBI. Fuel is under 58 lbs of pressure and leaks can ruin you day, so always think safety when working around fuel.
Install Fuel Pump Block-off: In most cases the Fuel pump block-off does not need a hold down screw and should be secured by tapping into place. Remember to remove the pump pump rod from the bore to eliminate another moving part that is not needed.
Install ECM and Wiring Harness: ECM should be mounted with the 4 mounting tabs. It is water resistant, but not waterproof and care should be used to keep water directly away from the ECM. All connectors are weather pack or water tight, but care should always be used with liquids and electronic components. Optimum location would be inside the passenger cabin, but it would require a 1-1/2″ hole cut into body to allow connectors to pass, so for this reason the ECM is located in the engine compartment. The Fuel pump connector is a spade terminal and needs a wire ran to the pump(s) and is not included in the harness. Black heat shrink tubes are included in kit to seal spade and bullet terminals and will seal after heated (do not use open flame). They should only be installed after installation and testing has been completed as they will need to be removed to open connection. On FC/Vans, the ECM will be mounted in the battery rear area. EM is mounted on the firewall along with relays and MAP sensor. The ECM/Relay panel is mounted in the old external regulator location for late model cars (1965-1969). You may modify your location and route, but cutting wire violates your warranty.
Install Crank Wheel and Sensor Bracket: The 36-1 Crank trigger wheel is bolted to the front of the harmonic balancer with 2 3/8″ bolts and spacers that go between the HB and trigger wheel. The trigger wheel will have an “E” scribed on the engine side of the wheel and must face the engine. It must be oriented with the blank teeth at the 10 o’clock position and it much easier to install off the engine. The sensor bracket is mounted to the existing bolt hole for the Corvair fuel pump hold down. It should be mounted reasonably level and may be bent slightly for correct alignment. A/C versions of this trigger wheel need to be mounted to the outer ring of the harmonic balancer and will require you to send us your Harmonic Balancer for modification.
Mount and Connect Map Sensor: Mount to firewall and push green weather-pak connector until fully seated.
Head Temp Sensor: This is a thermistor type sensor that is mounted into the snap-overhead sensor threaded hole on the drivers side head. The Sensor has 2 wires, the (yellow) sensor has a male blade which is plugged into the yellow wire on the wiring harness marked with “Temp”. The black (Ground) wire has a 1/4″ ring terminal that is designed to be mounted to the heater tin with a metal screw. 140HP heads have a fine thread and uses a different sensor. This will require you to reroute the factory gauge wire or extend the EFI head temps sensor wires.
Connect Throttle Position Sensor: The TPS is located on the front of the driver’s side TBIU (not mounted) and is connected with a weather-pak 3 conductor connector. After the wiring harness and TPS is connected, It is now time to calibrate your TPS. (Future Video and instructions go here)
Connect Injector Electrical Connector: The injector connectors are the GM LS type and are push and click to connect. They have a clip on the side to disconnect.
Test for Fuel leaks: You can bypass the fuel feed to pump wire directly to the battery or other 12V ground source and check for leaks. The Fuel Pressure Regulator will direct fuel back to maintain the proper fuel pressure. Have a fire extinguisher and a friend handy for this test.
Connect Fuel Pump Feed Wire: The very last item to connect to prevent accidental fuel spillage and fire danger during testing or accidental activation of the ECM.
Idle Air Control Valve: The IAC valve is used on automatic and air-conditioned models and can be mounted anywhere as customer desires. A vacuum source and “clean air” source from a air cleaner is needed. When the engine is cold or under load that forces the RPMs lower than called for, the ECM will direct the IAC to open and create a vacuum leak to increase the RPMs of the engine. A mechanical cold idle advance is also used to provide idle assist during cold starts.