Use of generators is discouraged as the alternator provides cleaner, less noise, and steadier power for the EFI system. If you plan to use a generator, it is highly recommended to install a power conditioner (capacitor box) inline to minimize the power spikes. One wire alternators (Converted LM) are easily obtainable and at swap meets and other Corvair members/vendors. Early models swap will require a new Delcotron and Alternator. On late models (1965-1960) cars, the ECM/Relay panel is designed to be mounted at the old external regulator location.
The Corvair EFI installation is simple if taken in small areas and verify each operation as you install.
- Remove Old System
- Install Fuel System (Tank to Engine Bay)
- Install EFI TBIs
- Install Wiring Harness.
- Check with Tuner Studio.
Safety: Have a fire extinguisher or other items handy for your safety when working with fuel. Gasoline is very flammable and can get out of hand very quickly. Minimize the use of rubber hose as it does not resist fire or abrasion. If you are not comfortable doing your fuel line work, you may want to find someone more experienced to help. You may lose your car or even your life…. so think about safety in all aspects of installation, testing, repair and driving.
Remove Old System: Before removing your system, make sure that your engine is pointed to #1 plug wire position. This will aid in the installation and ensure a quick and easy start after installation. You must remove the Carbs, Fuel Lines, round fuel pump and fuel pump rod. (take the Linkage off also and lay aside as you will reuse these items). Do not remove the inside Carb stud as it needs no adjustment. The outside stud will need 1/2″ removed from the bottom (course threads) to in sure proper fit of the throttle body.
Tank/Line Condition: You must first ask yourself….. and be honest about the condition of your tank. If your tank has rust and garbage, these items will go through the pump and destroy it…. period. If your tank is not in good shape or is suspect, remove tank, have it cleaned or install a new one. Corvair tanks are over 50 years old and most have rust and is recommended that tank is removed and cleaned. This will put your Corvair on the side of the road and one of the last things you want to scrimp on. The 68/69 and Turbos have a return line already built in, but is very restrictive due to its small size. We recommend replacing the return line with 5/16″ Steel tube.
Fuel Pumps: Before you start, You must decide which method of fuel delivery is right for you. They are 3 fuel system methods:
- Fuel Pump in Tank: (most difficult, but quite and low failure rate)
- External High Pressure pump: (Pump under passenger floor) Noisier than all others
- External 2 Pumps: One (1) low pressure pump under passenger floor and One (1) high pressure pump behind firewall area (above differential/starter area). This allows the repair or replacement of pumps without removing tank and also has a filter between the low and high pressure pumps for high pressure pump protection.
The fuel return 5/16″ Steel tube must be ran regardless of system chosen from the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) to the tank neck Nozzle. It is recommended to remove the fuel inlet nozzle *neck”, braze in a 5/16″ steel tube (2″ in length) and attach to the return line. An alternate way would to drill and install grommet with fitting as as it will not require brazing, but the neck must still be removed. Excess fuel will flow from FPR to tank to be recycled through system. Line must be brazed in or some other leak proof way of rerouting fuel back to tank in a manner that allows for reassembly of the nozzle back into the Corvair through the fuel door/slot opening. DO NOT PERFORM ON CORVAIR – IT MUST BE REMOVED.
The main fuel line can be reused as long as rust is not an issue and should be replaced if you are unsure. It connects to the Fuel pressure regulator Inlet marked in yellow. You will have to attach a rubber hose between the Inlet and your line to your tank. We have a barbed fitting that you will attach the fuel line too, but you may need to put a “bump” and use a worm clamp on your line to insure it does not slip off under high pressure.
USE ONLY HIGH PRESSURE EFI RUBBER LINE. All others will fail and when they do fail you will have 58 lbs of pressured gas spraying on the exhaust system. This is one of the last things you want to “Cheap out” on as you will lose your car and maybe something more valuable.
Install the Throttle Body Units: The unit with the TPS must be installed on the drivers side of vehicle. Use gaskets for a good seal along with the insulator on both sides as the linkage will “bottom out” on engine tins if not installed. You should install the thin gaskets (not thick) along with the insulator as the thickness of these are pre-engineered on the Corvair for linkage height. The outside stud needs to be “shortened” as not to stick to high and interfere with the installation of the TBIU.
Install DIS: Distributor will need to be removed and “guts” disassembled and reinstalled. The DIS Kit contains a block-off plate for the distributor. Mount the DIS to the right of the distributor and 3/8″ stud provided for mounting of the factory coil. The Distributor and DIS versions use different wiring harness, so you can’t easily move from one to the other and a different wiring harnesses.
Install Fuel Lines: You may need to slightly bend 1/4″ fuel lines to fit to injectors and for installer preference. Mount the fuel pressure regulator (FRP) on the 3/8 fuel line provided behind the firewall outside the engine bay. The FRP using a slip-on connector system is used and should not be installed until after all lines have been installed. You will need a special tool to remove the line from the FPR and available at all FLAPS. Use properly sized fuel line wrenches when connecting lines to TBIU and test under pressure before starting engine. Fuel is under 58 lbs of pressure and leaks can ruin you day, so always think safety when working around fuel.
Install ECM and Wiring Harness: ECM should be mounted with the 4 mounting tabs. It is water resistant, but not waterproof and care should be used to keep water directly away from the ECM. All connectors are weather pack or water tight, but care should always be used with liquids and electronic components. Optimum location would be inside the passenger cabin, but it would require a 1-1/2″ hole cut into body to allow connectors to pass, so for this reason the ECM is located in the engine compartment. The Fuel pump connector is a spade terminal and needs a wire ran to the pump(s) and is not included in the harness. Black heat shrink tubes are included in kit to seal spade and bullet terminals and will seal after heated (do not use open flame). They should only be installed after installation and testing has been completed as they will need to be removed to open connection. On FC/Vans, the ECM will be mounted in the battery rear area. EM is mounted on the firewall allong with relays and MAP sensor. The ECM/Relay panel is mounted in the old external regulator location for late model cars (1965-1969). You may modify your location and route, but cutting wire violates your warranty.
Mount and Connect Map Sensor: Mount to firewall and push green weather-pak connector until fully seated.
Connect Fuel Injectors: The injector connectors are the GM LS type and are push and click to connect. They have a clip on the side to disconnect.
Connect TPS: TPS is located on the front of the driver’s side TBIU and is a weather-pak 3 conductor connector.
Connect Air Temp Sensor: The Air Temp sensor (ATS) is pre-installed to the wiring harness as it is a push into grommet type of install. It can be removed with its clip on the side of the weather-pak connector.
Engine Temp Sensor: This is a thermistor type sensor and is wired to the drives side choke lever shaft hole. This hole will need to be tapped for 1/4-28 NPT and temp sensor installed. The purpose of the sensor is to indicate when the engine is cold, warm or hot and not for exact temp measurement.