Use use of generators is discouraged as the alternator provides cleaner and steadier power for the EFI system.  If you plan to use a generator, it is highly recommended to install a power conditioner (capacitor box) inline to minimize the power spikes.  One wire alternators (Converted LM) are easily obtainable and at swap meets and other Corvair members. Early models swap will require a new Delcotron and Alternator.

The Corvair EFI installation is simple if taken in small areas and verify each operation as you install.

  1. Remove Old System
  2. Install Fuel System (Tank to Engine Bay)
  3. Install EFI TBIs
  4. Install Wiring Harness.
  5. Check with Tuner Studio.

Remove Old System:  You must remove the Carbs, Fuel Lines and round fuel pump and fuel pump rod. (take the Linkage off also and lay aside as you will reuse these items).  Do not remove studs for Carburetors.  Bring your engine to #1 firing position so that engine will be in position for proper distributor phase.


Fuel System:

Safety:  Have a fire extinguisher or other items handy for your safety when working with fuel. Gasoline is very flammable and can get out of hand very quickly.  Minimize the use of rubber hose as it does not resist fire or abrasion.  If you are not comfortable doing your fuel line work, you may want to find someone more experienced to help.  You may lose your car or even your life…. so think about safety in all aspects of installation, testing, repair and driving.

Tank/Line  Condition:  You must first ask yourself and be honest about the condition of your tank.  If your tank has rust and garbage in it, these items will go through the pump and destroy it…. period.  If your tank is not in good shape or you suspect, remove tank and install new one.  Tanks are over 50 years old and most have rust.  At least remove the tank and clean it out to insure trash has been removed.  This will put your Corvair on the side of the road and one of the last things you want to scrimp on.  The 68/69 and Turbos have a return line already built in, but is very restrictive due to its small size.  We recommend replacing the return line with 5/16″ Steel tube.

Fuel Pumps:  You must decide which method of fuel system you want.  They are 3 fuel system methods:

  1.  Fuel Pump in Tank (most difficult, but quit and seems to run forever)
  2.  External High Pressure pump (Pump under passenger floor) Noisier than all others
  3.  External 2 Pumps – One (1) low pressure pump under passenger floor and One (1) high pressure pump behind firewall area (above differential).  This uses the Ford theory used on Pickups which allows repair/replacement of pumps without removing tank.

The fuel return 5/16″ Steel tube must be ran regardless of system chosen from the FRP to the tank neck Nozzle.  It is recommended to remove the fuel inlet nozzle, braze in a 5/16″ steel tube (2″ in length) and attach return to it.  Excess fuel will flow from FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) to tank to be recycled through system. Line must be brazed in or some other leak proof way of rerouting fuel back to tank in a manner that allows for reassembly of the nozzle back into the Corvair through the fuel door/slot opening.  DO NOT PERFORM ON CORVAIR – IT MUST BE REMOVED.

The main fuel line can be reused as long as rust is not an issue, but if in doubt it should be replaced.  If connects to the Fuel pressure regulator Inlet marked in yellow.  You will have to attach a rubber hose between the Inlet and your line to your tank.  We have a barbed fitting that you will attach the fuel line too, but you may need to put a “bump” on your line to insure it does not slip off under pressure.

USE ONLY HIGH PRESSURE EFI RUBBER LINE.  All other will fail and now you have 50 lbs of pressured gas spraying on your exhaust system.   This is one of the last things you want to “Cheap out”  on as you will lose your car and maybe something more valuable.

Install the Throttle Body Units:  The unit with the TPS must be installed on the drivers side of vehicle. Use gaskets for a good seal and the thick insulator on both sides as the linkage will “bottom out” on engine tins if not installed.

Install Coil and ICM:   Mount Coil/ICM assembly at the rear body support. (See pic)

Install Distributor:  Install distributor (engine should already be on #1 fire).  Engine mark should be at 16 degrees BTDC and should be pointed at #1 wire on the distributor.  You may have to rotate engine a few degrees to get distributor to “drop in” to the oil pump slot and properly seat.  Bring back to 16 degrees after distributor installation and insure rotor is pointed to #1 plug to keep distributor properly phased.

Install DIS (Special Order):  Distributor will need to be removed and “guts” disassembled.  The DIS Kit contains a block-off plate for the distributor.  The Distributor and DIS versions use different wiring harness, so you can easily move from one to the other.

Install Fuel Lines:  You may have to slightly bend 1/4″ fuel lines to fit to injectors and for installer preference.  Use fuel line and proper sized wrenches when connecting lines to TBIU and test under pressure before starting engine.

Install ECM and Wiring Harness:  ECM should be mounted with the 4 mounting tabs.  It is water resistant, not waterproof so care should be used to keep water directly away from the ICM.  All connectors are weather pack or water tight, but care should always be used with liquids and electronic components.  Optimum location would be inside the passenger cabin, but it would require a 1-1/2″ hole cut into body to allow connectors to pass, so for this reason the ECM is located in the engine compartment.  The Fuel pump connector is a spade terminal and needs a wire ran to the pump(s) and is not included in the harness.  Black heat shrink tubes are included in kit to seal spade and bullet terminals and will seal after heated (do not use open flame).  They should only be installed after installation and testing has been completed as they will need to be removed to open connection.  On FC/Vans, the ECM will be mounted in the battery rear area.   EM is a xxxxxx.   LM and Converts have the ECM mounted over the drivers side rear tire.  You may modify location and route, but once you cut wires, you are on your own and violates your warranty.

Mount and Connect Map Sensor:  Mount to firewall and push green weatherpak connector until fully seated.

Connect Fuel Injectors:  The injector connectors are the #blank# type and are push and click to connect.  They have a clip on the side for removal.

Connect TPS:  TPS is located on the front of the driver’s side TBIU and is a weatherpak 3 conductor connector.

Connect Air Temp Sensor:  The Air Temp sensor (ATS) is preinstalled to the  wiring harness as it is a push into grommet type of install.   It can be removed with its clip on the side of the weatherpak connector.

Engine Temp Sensor:  This is a termistor and will be mounted under the engine in to the head (the spare engine snap location).  It has 2 wires and must be grounded with the ground lug provided.  140 HP engine will need to remove the temp snap sensor and install the Engine temp sensor.