Version 2.0

Corvair EFI System 

Manufactured by Brown Injection Systems, LLC

 

Red is a safety/danger warning

Blue is really important that will save you time if followed

Italicized is for description 

The use of generators is discouraged as the alternator provides cleaner, less noise, and steadier power for the EFI system.  If you plan to use a generator, it is highly recommended to install a power conditioner (capacitor box) inline to minimize the power spikes.  One wire alternator (Converted LM) is easily obtainable and at swap meets and other Corvair members/vendors. Early model alternator swaps will require either acquiring a Late Model Delcotron or modifying to accept the later model alternator frame.  On late models (1965-1960) cars, the ECM/Relay panel is designed to be mounted at the old external regulator location.  Remember to add a diode on the gauge side of the alternator to prevent a “running-on” condition due to feedback through the bulb (Details below).

Open your package and review the Packing List.

The Corvair EFI installation is simple if taken in small steps and verify each operation as you install.

Installation Steps

Disconnect battery power (Neg cable)
Modify Fuel Sending Unit to Accept Internal pump/Install FP Combo unit
Install Fuel Return Line (Fuel Pressure Regulator to Filler Tube Adapter)
Install Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
Install crank trigger wheel (This needs to be installed to set static timing for distributor)
Install/Weld-in exhaust bung (This task can be accomplished at any time)
Remove Carb System
Remove Choke rods
Install Fuel Damper
Install Injection Fuel Lines
Mount Control Panel w/ECM on the driver’s side firewall.
Lay Wiring Harness over the engine (out of the way, but in general location)
Install ETS (Engine Temp Sensor – Install before the driver’s side TBI)
Install reduced height Carb stud and spacer/gaskets
Install TBIs
Install HE Coil/Ignition Module Assembly
Modify and Install Distributor
Static Timing of the Distributor
Install Crank Pickup Sensor Bracket
Install Crank Pickup Sensor and adjust to .050″ to .10″
Connect Crank Sensor connector to Pickup Sensor
Connect Main Ground wires and Coil ground cables
Connect all sensors.
Connect the large ground terminal at the left rear of the engine compartment.
Connect a 14 gauge (Red) wire from the harness to your electric fuel pump.
Connect the 14 gauge (Red) wire to a full-time fused 12 Volt Battery
Connect the 16 gauge (orange) wire to the 12V Switch (12V when the key is on)
Connect Idle Air Control System (ISC) solenoid
Download and check with Tuner Studio
Initial Calibration of TPS and Temp Sensors
Check for Leaks
Test start and establish stable idle
Check for Leaks Again
Balance TBIs
Final Calibration TPS
Log test drive and make notes
Check for Leaks Again

Safety:  Have a fire extinguisher or other items handy for your safety when working with fuel. Gasoline is very flammable and can get out of hand very quickly.  Minimize the use of a rubber hose as it does not resist fire or abrasion.  If you are not comfortable doing your fuel line work, you may want to find someone more experienced to help.  You may lose your car or even your life…. so think about safety in all aspects of installation, testing, repair, and driving.

First Rule: (say it four times fast)

Your safety is paramount.  Gas is explosive and once ignited it is very hard to control and extinguish, so know what your doing, have a fire prevention system, and never take risks.  Its a car… it’s not worth losing your property, your health or even your life.

Fuel System:

Tank Condition:  You must first ask yourself….. and be honest about the condition of your tank.  If your tank has rust and garbage, these items will go through the pump and destroy it…. period.  If your tank is not in good shape or is suspect, remove the tank, have it cleaned or install a new one.  Corvair tanks are over 50 years old and most have rust and is recommended that the tank is removed and cleaned.  This will put your Corvair on the side of the road and one of the last things you want to scrimp on.  The 1968/69 and Turbo models have a return line already built-in, but is very restrictive and should not be used.  Your tank should be empty and dry before any tank work is performed.

Fuel Pumps:  Before you start, you must decide which method of fuel delivery is right for you.  This pump will need to be rated at 85 lbs or more working pressure regardless of the type used.  They are 2 fuel system methods:

1.  Fuel Pump in Tank: (Highly Recommended)
2.  External High-Pressure pump: (Pump outside of the tank) Noisier than internal, but easy to repair

We highly recommend using an internal in-tank pump and Bosch components due to noise and reliability concerns.  Pump failure is highly unlikely unless the pump is run dry or a quality pump is not installed.  Most internal pumps last more than 10 years of moderate use without any trouble.

Main Fuel Line: You will use the existing 5/16″ fuel line between the FPR and the engine bay, but check the line for internal rust.  This line is after the FPR/Filter, so any rust in this line will be sent directly to the fuel injectors and will eventually clog.  If you have doubts about your main fuel line, replace it (about $25 at Summit)

Fuel Pump Internal: Bosch #69225 or equivalent should only be used. A new fuel sock, Bosch #68001 is also required as any trash entering the pump will destroy it in short order. The sending unit must be modified with a bulkhead connector for the fuel pump power and ground and can be accomplished with instructions from some Corvair websites for electric fuel pump conversion. The bulkhead connector from Revolution Electronics is recommended for easy conversion.  if you try to fashion your bulkhead connector using “JB” weld, it will not seal to the special Teflon wire and will leak. Teflon wire will not break down over time in gasoline and may prevent trouble down the road.  These pumps also have an over-pressure valve that lets off at approx 85 psi. We offer a Sending Unit with a Fuel Pump Combo kit that has all the components already installed, wired, and ready for install.

Fuel Pump External:  This type of setup will require two (2) pumps, one (1) suction type pump to draw the fuel from the tank, and one (1) high-pressure pump to raise the fuel pressure to 58 psi.  We also recommend a filter between the low and high-pressure pumps to act as a collector so the high-pressure pump always has a supply of fuel.  Special care needs to be taken with brackets and mounting material to reduce the amount of noise the high-pressure pump generates.  An Airtex E2000 pump is a good high-pressure external pump with minimal noise and is available at most FLAPs or the internet.  The Airtex E8090 is a recommended low-pressure pump that can draw fuel and is rated to pump at 10-15 psi.

Fuel Sending Unit w/Pump (not part of the kit):   First, Insert the fuel bulb and then bend the filter edges inward so the pump can be installed after the bulb.  The pump should mount up and will need the ring attached to secure the sending unit.  Remember to install a new rubber seal on the tank to the sending unit to prevent future leaks.

 

Fuel Line Return Adapter:    Our fuel return adapter is an easy a quick way to install the fuel return.  The removable adapter uses a seal and clamps to secure it to the fuel filler and prevent leaks.  You may need to clean road grime or undercoating which has accumulated over the years for a good seal.  Excess fuel will flow from FPR to the filler neck which also cools the fuel and returns it’s to the tank.   DO NOT PERFORM WHILE ON THE CORVAIR – IT MUST BE REMOVED.  Drill an 11/32″ hole and place the adapter with the gasket over the hole where the 5/16″ nipple sticks in.  Tighten both screw clamps until secure and the adapter will bottom out on the whole.

 

Early Model Return Fuel Line:  Use the factory hole to route return and main fuel line.  Use the large hole in the frame to run the return line to the return line adapter.

Late Model Return Fuel Line:  You will need to drill a 3/4″ hole next to the factory hole for the return fuel line.  The support beam is double-walled and will require a bit long enough to reach through.  Be careful not to drill too far and damage the fuel tank.  Use a steel backing plate when drilling to prevent accidental gas tank punctures.

FC Return Fuel Line:    We recommend mounting the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) on the driver’s side frame rail as shown below and run the return line through the drivers’ side frame hole to the filler tube.  Install the filler tube return adapter and run the return line between the FPR and adapter.  Fuel injection hose and steel tube can be used for the return line to meet installers’ desires.  Some tanks have a fitting at the top of the tank and can be used for a return.  This method is very hard to install and some new tanks have the fitting welded (for looks) and cant be used.  We recommend using the Fuel Return Adapter attached to the filler tube for an easier install.

Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter:  This Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) was chosen for its compactness, GM design, price, and its dual function as a filter.  It uses the slip-on type of connector for the main feed and the “IN” (3/8″) and “RET” (5/16′) lines and uses the rubber hose to fuel line connectors provided (See pic).   The feed line from the tank sending unit is connected by a high-pressure rubber hose and clamp.  The fuel line is then connected to the Fuel Pressure Regulator “IN” nipple by a 5/16″ high-pressure rubber hose and worm clamp.   Return lines are connected by a 5/16″ high-pressure rubber hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator  “RET” to the return on the filler tube.  You may need to remove the tunnel pan to expose the factory existing fuel line and cut the line where it will allow enough room to connect a 5/16″high-pressure hose to the “OUT” fitting on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.  Use a device (flaring tool) that will install a bubble or bump on the line that will not allow the high-pressure hose to back off or slip under pressure.  The other end of the factory 5/16 fuel line connects at the rear of the engine bay and will be connected to the engine “T” adapter fuel line via a small length of high-pressure rubber hose.  If you change or replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter, remember to remove the steel 3/8″ to 5/16″ adapter using a fuel line removal tool and install it into the new FPR.

IN = From the Fuel Pump (3/8″ to 5/16″ hose barb)

RET = Return to the Fuel Tank  (5/16″ to 5/16″ hose barb)

OUT = To the Engine Fuel Rail (5/16″ hose barb pre-installed)

• Early Model FPR Mounting  – The FPR mounting bracket needs to be reversed for EM Mounting.  Drill and Tap or use a Self-drilling/tapping screw for mounting bolt/screw and use a lock washer to permanently secure the FPR.

*1 each 90-degree and 1 each 180-degree fuel connectors are provided in the early kit as shown.

• FC Model FPR Mounting 

• Late FC Model (Mounted on support)

Mounting the Fuel Pressure Regulator without using the quick disconnects will make replacement more difficult and not recommended.  Please see the individual Fuel Pressure Regulator install instructions for more in-depth details.

Remove Carburetor System:  Before removing your old carburetor system, make sure that your engine is pointed to the #1 plug wire firing position.  This will aid in the installation and ensure a quick and easy start after installation.  You must remove the Carbs, Fuel Lines, round fuel pump, and fuel pump rod. (take the Linkage off also and lay it aside as you will reuse these items).  Do not remove the inside carburetor stud as it needs no adjustment.  The outside stud will need 1/2″ removed from the bottom (course threads) so the stud is 3.3″ to 3.5″ above the base.  You may want to “test fit” the throttle body on the stud to ensure the proper height is achieved.

Connect Fuel Pulse Damper at body fuel line to Engine:  You will need to put a “bump” on the body fuel line if it does not have one already as this will prevent slippage under pressure.   Install the Fuel Pulse Damper (FPD) between the body fuel line and the engine fuel line and is bi-directional.  This will smooth out any boucing in the fuel tables caused by pressure waves within the fuel lines.  USE ONLY HIGH-PRESSURE EFI RUBBER .  This is one of the last things you want to “Cheap out”  on as you could break down, have a fire, and lose your car, and maybe something more valuable.  We suggest a 100 psi minimum rating for this hose as all others will fail when under pressure.

Engine Temp Sensor:   This is a thermistor type sensor that screwed into the shroud bolt location at the #4 plug wire.  Install this sensor before installing the TBI to permit routing and tighten it until snug. Route wires so they will not interfere with the throttle body or TPS operation.  This sensor can be removed and installed with the TBI in place but will require a higher level of attention not to break or twist the wires.

Mount Control Panel:   The control panel is mounted in the engine bay for simplicity and ease of install. The components will need to be removed, holes drilled, panel-mounted, and then replace components as shown in the photo. The ECM is water-resistant, but not waterproof and care should be used to keep water directly away from the ECM.  The Fuel pump wire from the control panel is routed to a 20 amp fuse holder and onto the fuel pump.  The left (#1) relay controls and provides power to the entire EFI system.  The right (#2) relay controls the Fuel pump and optional WBO2 power.  After installation, ensure your control panel is grounded as this ground is used for the relays, ground shield, and crank sensor.  Drill and mount the control panel before you install your driver’s side TBI to allow room for a drill. 

• Early-model car/wagon (1961-1964)  The control panel is mounted horizontally in the blank space under the removed voltage regulator.
• Late-model cars (1965-1969)  The control panel is mounted vertically in the space slightly lower than the removed voltage regulator as shown in the photo.
• FC/Vans (1961-1965)  The control panel is designed to fit the contour of the FC engine bay.  Bolts to secure the panel to the firewall are provided and only the MAP sensor needs to be removed to drill the mounting holes.    

 

Late Model Installation:

Early Model Installation:

FC Control Panel Mounting:  This panel fits on the contour of the engine bay (drivers side)

Throttle Body info:  When you send us your cores, we first clean, sandblast and tumble polish each base.  After another good washing, we install a new throttle shaft and begin the assembly of the Fuel Injection throttle body.  We do our best to provide a quality product that will give years of trouble-free service.

Install the Throttle Body Units:  Use gaskets for a good seal along with the insulator on both sides as the linkage will “bottom out” on engine tins if the insulator is not installed.  You should install the thin gaskets (not thick) along with the insulator as the thickness of these is pre-engineered on the Corvair for linkage height.  The TBI is installed as a pre-assembled unit and the outside stud will need to be  “shortened” by 1/2″ (course side) as not to interfere with the installation of the TBI.  If the stud is too high, it will hit the bottom of the injector assembly (see pic below) and cause a vacuum leak.

The TPS is checked for proper operation and preset loading before shipping and no adjustment should be necessary.  The bracket is fully adjustable to prevent the binding of the TPS and throttle shaft.  If the TPS needs to be replaced, the TPS bracket will need to be removed and the TPS mounted to bracket, then bracket to TBI.  Do not fully tighten the TPS screws until you have tested to eliminate binding.  The TPS sensor a factory setting of 10%-20% TPS to allow for linkage adjustments, etc., and should not be software calibrated until completely installed.  DO NOT ADJUST THE TPS shaft set screw unless instructed by Tech support.  If the TPS shaft set screw has been loosened, do not install and call tech support for instructions.

2 TBI Fuel Lines:  The fuel lines to the TBIs are 1/4″ steel, double flare ends with a 100 psi gauge, and connects to our fuel injector adapters.  The normal amount of torque is necessary to install the fuel lines to the Fuel “T” and normally tightened to where they will not leak. ALWAYS use Line wrenches and a wrench to hold fitting to tighten to prevent fuel leaks.   DO NOT CROSS-THREAD the fuel injection line fitting as the fitting is not field-replaceable.  The lines are pre-bent to accommodate routing but can be bent slightly for ease of installation or customer preference.  Ensure that fuel lines or injectors do not contact or rub against any other parts that may cause long-term failure.  Fuel is under 58 lbs of pressure and leaks can ruin your day, so always think safety when working around fuel.   You may get a lower indication than 58 psi if the system has a lot of air between the pump and gauge as it will compress the air and also account for the accuracy of your gauge. If you have an early EFI system, we recommend mounting a permanent fuel pressure gauge as it can be used to quickly diagnose fuel delivery issues.

4 TBI Installation and Adjustment:  Attention:  Connecting 4 TBIs is a more complex task than connecting 2 TBIs due to the fuel lines.  Take your time and slightly bend the fuel lines to get the best fit and alignment.  Loosen the throttle followers before Installing the TBI units.  After securing the TBIs to the engine check they are in a generally straight line and the throttle plates are closed.  Use a hex-head wrench to tighten the follower as it lightly touches the primary TBI linkage arm while both are completely closed.  Actuate the primary linkage and check that each pair of TBIs open in the same manner without binding.  Install linkage and check that all 4 TBIs open without binding or sticking again.  A return spring is added to the Secondary TBI to assist the throttle to the closed position.  DO NOT CROSS-THREAD the fuel injection line fitting as the fitting is not field-replaceable.

Install Fuel Pump Block-off:  The Fuel pump block-off is installed by tapping into place using a rubber hammer as a metal hammer will damage the finish.  The factory hold-down bolt should not be used unless it is shortened or it will crack the housing when tightened.  This bolt or another 3/8″ hex head will also be used to secure the Pickup Sensor Bracket.  REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD before installing the block-off and may damage the engine or housing when the engine is rotated.

Crank Trigger Wheel System:  The crank trigger wheel bolts to the front of the Harmonic Balancer using 3/8″x 3/4″ threaded bolts with a spacer between the HB and the crank trigger wheel.  You can install the trigger wheel first then install the HB with the trigger wheel attached.  If your HB is already installed on your engine, you can attach the trigger wheel without removing the HB by putting the bolts and spacers on the trigger wheel and using a “glue gun” glue to hold the spacers in place until the bolts are tightened.  Removal of the oil filter will allow more room to accomplish this task.  Removal of the rear mount bracket may save you time, but requires removal of the sheet metal under the motor mount and a jack/lift for the engine.  A crank pulley was used on the early model and low HP models instead of a Harmonic Balancer.  The trigger wheel is mounted with the engine at 0 degrees and the open slot at approx 10 o’clock position  (to the left of the degree indicator).  Trigger wheels have the white tooth painted and should be facing outward and the spacers are 5/16 nuts drilled out to 3/8″ which provides the perfect distance between the HB and trigger wheel.  Do not use lock/washers under the bolt as it will not allow you to change the belt as they will be too close to the rear engine bracket on some models.  Loctite or similar thread locking solution MUST BE USED to keep bolts from backing out after torquing.  After installing the timing wheel, you should check that you can change the fan belt.  If there is not enough room between the wheel and the rear bracket, washers will need to be added between the bracket and the engine mount.

If your engine is equipped with  Air Conditioning, Smog Pump and you want to keep the pulley, you will need to install the 6025 EFI Distributor.

Remove, Modify, and Replace Distributor:  Rotate the distributor to the #1 plug wire position, once in the #1 firing position, remove the distributor and either perform that conversion or install the converted distributor.  Install a new rotor button, cap, and base gasket for years of worry and maintenance-free ignition service.  Read the Distributor Conversion Page on how to convert the Corvair distributor to an EFI-controlled distributor.

Static Timing of the Distributor: Move the engine to 25 degrees BTDC (see pic) by rotating the engine where the “white” tooth is aligned with the fuel pump mounting hole and center crankshaft bolt.  Rotate the distributor to the #1 position and lock down the distributor using a 9/16″ wrench.  This alignment procedure must be performed before mounting the timing wheel pickup bracket for a clear alignment view.  Once this setting has been completed, DO NOT MOVE the distributor!!!.  Moving the distributor will NOT change the timing of the engine.  Moving the distributor out of phase will burn the cap/rotor and cause premature failure of the cap/wires/plugs.  If your trigger wheel does not have the white sticker (tooth), use the 2nd tooth clockwise from the open gap on the trigger wheel as shown in the pic below.  The white tooth is not painted, but white-out can be removed very easily.

Install Pickup Sensor Bracket:   The sensor bracket is mounted to the existing bolt hole for the Corvair fuel pump hold down.  Use the original bolt or a 3/8″-16 bolt with a lock washer for a permanent solution.  It should be mounted reasonably level and you may bend slightly for correct alignment.  the bracket has an oval hole to allow for a slight timing adjustment of about 4 degrees.  A/C versions of this trigger wheel need to be mounted to the outer ring of the harmonic balancer and will require you to send us your Harmonic Balancer for modification.

Pickup Sensor (Discontinued):   The Pickup sensor is mounted into the Pickup Sensor Bracket from the top and should bottom out in the center of the trigger wheel.  You may need to bend the bracket or add shims between the bracket and base for perfect alignment.  Use the included “Popsicle stick” (.050-.10) between the crank sensor and trigger wheel and lock down with the set screw in the side of the bracket.  Only apply enough torque to set the screw to prevent the sensor from moving up and down.  DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN as it will crack/damage the sensor and will need to be replaced.

Pickup Sensor (Starting Apr 2021):  This redesigned sensor uses a squeeze function rather than a set screw to avoid damage to the sensor by over-torquing.  The screw clamp can be rotated to the best position to facilitate adjustment and tightening for EM, LM, and FC.  This unit should only be “SLIGHTLY” bent or shimmed to get perfect alignment over the crank trigger wheel.

Wiring Harness Connection Points:  The main wiring is routed on the driver’s side to the back of the vehicle and ending at the passenger side TBI.  You may modify your wiring harness location and route, but cutting the wiring harness violates your warranty.

• Map Sensor (Control Panel)
• Main Ground to #4/#6 area of the engine head
• TPS
• Engine Temp
• Injector 1 (Drivers Side)
• Crank Sensor or 6025 EFI Distributor
• Coil and Ground/Ignition Module
• Injector 2 (Passenger Side)
• Idle Control System solenoid
• WBO2 sensor(s) or O2 sensor
• Fuel Pump Output wire (14 AWG wire to fuel pump – FUSED)
• 12V Battery (Red) – Fused to Battery (on all the time)
• 12V switch (Orange) – Connect to 12V Switch (At the start of the resistance wire is a good place)

12V Battery and Switched:  Cut the Resistor (cloth-covered) wire to the coil (no longer needed)  about 2″ away from the connector.  This will provide 12V during a switch-on condition which will power the ECM and Relay.   Connect to 12V Switched (Orange wire) from the EFI wiring harness.  The +12V Battery should be connected to a +12V Battery source that is always on and fused.

Main Ground:  Connect the 1/4″ ground tab to the bolt between cylinders #4 and #6.

Coil Ground (VAG Coil):  The coil connector has a ground tab on terminal #3 and connects to the bracket holding the coil in place.  The coil ground needs to be well connected as the engine will not run if this ground is loose. 

Install and Connect VAG Coil:   

• The Early Model car bracket is mounted to the center rear support using 2 self-tapping 5/16″ bolts provided.
• The Wagon mounts directly to the support at the rear of the car (two 1/4″ holes will need to be drilled in support).
• The Late Model car uses a bracket that offsets the coil to the right of the cove support bar.
• On the FC, it bolts directly to the support using the factory drilled holes using 1/4″ bolts and nuts.

The bracket is shared between the late and early model cars and should be bent (as shown in the late model) at the installer’s discretion.  The Ground for the coil is bolted to the support using the screws that hold the coil bracket in place.  Your ECM software should indicate that in the ignition section, the number of coils should be: “Single Coil“.  Dwell should be set at 3.0 ms and a duration of 1.5 ms.  Cranking Dwell 6ms and 5 degrees advanced cranking.  **WARNING** Be careful handling the coil before and during installation as it is easily damaged during a drop.   

Early Model Mounting

Late Model Mounting – Bend bracket at installers discretion

FC Coil Installation:  Use the existing holes with (2)  1/4-20 screws w/nuts.  Use bolt for coil ground wire.   The mounting tabs on the coil will need to be drilled out to 5/16″ for the 1/4-20″ screws to fit the holes in the FC Support.

GM Module/Round Coil Assembly:  The factory 1.5 Ohms 12V coil is used in conjunction with the GM module to produce a highly reliable ignition system with more than an adequate spark for most Corvairs.   The Module is attached to an aluminum bracket/heat sink which is mounted to the rear center support.  which is DO NOT USE a resistor wire or ballast on the Positive side of the coil as the Module is designed to take the increased heat and will reduce spark intensity.   The Module assembly is connected to the wiring harness/ECM by 4 position weather-pack connector and the Pink (+) and Black (-) wire are connected to the coil.  The GM ignition module is the latest in coil control technology in which timing and dwell are controlled by the ECM.   Since these modules were designed to carry a much heavier current load, it stands to reason they should last for years carrying a much lighter coil current load.  You will need to have your distributor locked out as the module controls the timing and firing.  We may supply used GM modules rather than aftermarket modules, but we give a 1-year warranty on all modules.

Mounting:  Early Models should be mounted as shown in Pic 2 and the same as the VAG coil.  The Late model has 2 bolt holes that align with the Bracket.  The ground wire may be attached from the back, but assure it gets a good ground!  FC and Wagon models are attached to the center support with a heat sink and uses a 1 hole mounting.

Troubleshooting/Pinout:

1. Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire 12V Switch Power
2. Circuit labeled B -White Wire to ECU
3. Circuit labeled C -Black to Ground
4. Circuit labeled D -Black to Coil Negative Terminal

 

Connect Throttle Position Sensor:  The TPS is located on the front of the driver’s side TBIU (not mounted) and is connected with a weather-pack 3 conductor connector.

Connect Injector Electrical Connectors:  The injector connectors are the GM LS type and are push and click to connect.  They have a clip on the side to disconnect

Connect Idle Control Solenoid (ICS):  The idle control solenoid is mounted on the passenger side TBI.  The 1/8″ vacuum hose connects between the ICS vacuum pull and the solenoid valve.  The 3/16″ hose connects to the passenger side vacuum port and solenoid valve.  This will provide the vacuum needed to lift the throttle and provide some cold weather RPM advance and during high engine draw (automatic trans in gear).  Adjustment to the pull arm can be accomplished with a long hex wrench or by bending wire.  This is not intended to control A/C compressor activation but will help.

The above shows the PVC “Tee” to 1/4″ to feed the ICS and the MAP Sensor. This setup is for manual cars that do not have the automatic vacuum nipple on the crossover tube.

Idle Control System (Sep 19-Present):  The Brown Idle Control System (ICS) is used to maintain idle control on all models.  The passenger side TBI is equipped with a direct vacuum port and is connected to the ICS solenoid.  The idle control solenoid is mounted on the passenger side TBI and is pull side is already connected to the idle control actuator.  The ICS uses the Corvair choke pull-off and GM EGR solenoid for simplicity and ease of replacement.  The ICS can be manually adjusted with a 5/32″ hex on the shaft or by bending the pull wire.  The ICS pull arm should not contact the throttle shaft arm, but be very close so that when it is activated it can lift the throttle with very little lost motion.  The adjustment of the ICS should not be accomplished until the final idle has been accomplished.

Idle Air Control Valve (Jan-Aug 19):  The IAC valve assembly is placed inline by cutting the PVC hose and inserting the 3/8″ Tee at this cut.  Route a 3/8″ vacuum hose to the IAC valve mounted on the passenger side TBI.  This system was replaced with the ICS as it can maintain higher RPMs during the initial startup.  If you have set up other than the present ICS, we will upgrade it for free and you only pay the shipping.

O2 Sensor Planning and Placement:  We recommend placing the O2 Sensor bung where the 2 exhaust stream meets on the single exhaust.  On the dual exhaust, you have the option of a single or dual WBO2 sensor. We recommend having the O2 sensor bung before installing the EFI at a local muffler shop.  This will allow sensor bung installation with the exhaust installed to ensure proper location.  They usually have plugs to block off the O2 sensor bung until the system is installed.  You can also have the bungs installed after your EFI installation as it tunned enough for short drives.  DO NOT USE THE O2 SENSOR AS A PLUG AS RUNNING THE O2 WITHOUT POWER APPLIED WILL DAMAGE THE SENSOR.  The O2 can be in a Narrowband or Wideband sensor but must be the same type if the dual-mode is selected.

Single O2 Sensor Mode:  The single-mode, will take the O2 reading from the passenger side exhaust and apply it to both TBIs.

Dual O2 Sensor Mode:  The Dual mode will trim the fuel on each TBI according to the O2 signal on that side (bank).  The additional O2 sensor is connected to the wire marked and capped  “Sec O2 Sensor”.  A check should be performed to ensure the O2 sensor wires correspond to the TBI.  Bank 1/Injector 1 is on the passenger side and Bank 2/Injector 2 is on the driver’s side. Call tech support and we will assist with the software settings and wiring installation.

Narrow Band O2 Sensor Wiring:  The NBO2 sensor is a single wire sensor and connects to the O2 sensor connector located on the passenger side of the engine.

Spartan2 Wide Band O2 Sensor Wiring:   Connect the ground wires before connecting the power/sensor plug.  If you purchase a WBO2 sensor from another vendor,  use the below wiring diagram to aid in your install.

• Red wire – Connect to Fuel pump 12V power wire.  This is a change from our original instructions.
• Green wire – Connect the Purple wire to the ECM.
• Brown wire – Not used (cut and cap)
• Blue wire – Not used  (cut and cap)
• Black wire – Controller Ground – Ground to Head
• White wire –  (O2 Heater Ground) – Ground to Body (Chassis Ground)

*The black and Wire wires need to be separated and grounded separately.

Always follow the directions provided in the link provided.  Spartan2 Wideband Wiring Instructions  Use of the LEDs included is not needed as the Corvair exhaust is close to the Sensor.  The below pic shows the WBO2 sensor controller wired on the passenger side of an FC.  We recommend drilling through the engine tin and not the body!

Apr 2020 to Present:  The wiring harness has been modified for WBO2 power and connection.  WBO2 sensors have a wiring adapter included for connection to the wiring harness that will be performed by the end-user.

Test for Fuel leaks:  You can bypass the fuel feed to pump wire directly to the battery or other +12VDC source and check for leaks.  The Fuel Pressure Regulator will direct fuel back to maintain the proper fuel pressure.  Have a fire extinguisher and a friend handy for this test. Having a leak-free system fuel system is very important for the operation and your safety.

Test for proper fuel pressure:  Connect a gauge to the passenger side fuel line (left loose at injector) and test the fuel pressure by connecting the fuel pump wire to a +12VDC source.  Pressure should indicate between 50-60 psi (approx due to gauge) and should hold that pressure after the pump stops.  If you do not have the required pressure, stop and find out why as it could be a leak or a failed pump.  After pressure verification, connect the fuel line to the passenger-side injector and tighten it.

A cheap and fast fuel pressure test:  A cheap fuel pressure test can be had for less than $10.  These are not very accurate, but we are trying to establish that we have high pressure in the line so anything around 50 psi will indicate that it should work.  This is a tire air pressure pump connected with a 5/16″ high-pressure hose using a hose clamp slipped over the 1/4″ flare at the injector connector (as shown below).  The fuel pressure regulator is rated at 58 psi and should be replaced if that pressure is not being obtained.  If your pressure is still low after the replacement of the FPR, the line pump and or leaks should be suspected.  Connecting directly to the fuel pump discharge line pressure of 80-85 lbs should be indicated (safety pop-off valve).

Connect Fuel Pump Feed Wire:  The very last item to connect to prevent accidental fuel spillage and fire danger during testing or accidental activation of the ECM.  Connect the fuel pump wire to the wire that runs to the fuel pump.  The fuel pump wire has a 20 amp fuse holder (fuse not included) and is necessary for safety in case of short.   You must use 14 AWG wire between the relay and the pump draws approx 5 amps running.  We recommend a heat shrink to ensure the connection will not vibrate loose and it also provides insulating qualities.

Alternator In-Line Diode:  Installing the Diode will prevent a “continue to run” situation after the switch is turned off.  This is caused by the ALT lamp in your dash which has just enough resistance to keep the relay open, in turn keeping 12V to the engine through the #1 relay. For detailed instructions, click here ALTERNATOR DIODE

Connect Laptop w/Cable:  Connect the cable to the USB port of your laptop.  It may have to load a driver and take a few minutes the first time it is connected.  Download the TunerStudio program which you will use to access the ECU with your laptop. After installing, open the program.  You will need to determine which comm port your USB cable has selected and change TunerStudio to match that comm port.  The ECU must be on (engine not running).  After you get communications, read the software and tuning page.  You will need to create a profile for your engine/car and if connected properly, it will detect your firmware version and then the default screen will open.  You will be able to see the gauges that indicate the most important sensors.  MAP gauge should be RED/100% when not running since there is no vacuum.  TPS should be 0 but should also gain when the throttle is moved.   RPMs should indicate in the 200s’ during cranking and if not, the engine will not fire or inject fuel without RPM input.

Set Initial Calibration for TPS and Temp:  The TPS will need to be calibrated 2 times, this being the first, and again after the manual idle balance and adjustment has been performed.

• To Set TPS (watch this youtube video coming soon)
• To Set Engine Temp Sensor Calibration,  use the Ford Settings

You are now ready to start the engine.  It is advised that this be a 2 man operation… one to start the engine or turn off in an emergency and another to watch for any issues.  The first start should be accomplished outdoors in case of fire, rich running, etc.  Have your computer set up with TunerStudio running so that you can quickly identify any issues that may cause the engine not to run or run poorly.

These are the things to check before that may make your start-up easier:

• Ensure the ECM is powered up (switch on and laptop will connect)
• That you have fuel pressure at the injector
• The distributor is phased properly (180 degrees out will not run)
• Check all your connections (you will see these on the laptop)
• Check to see if you have RPM indicated on a laptop during start and no crank (Check Fuel/Distributor Phasing)

Air Cleaners:  Because of so many different air cleaners setups, we leave that to the end-user.  The TBIs will accept Corvair Factory Air Cleaners (2″ inner bore) but may require modification for “hold downs” that secure the cleaner to the TBI based on the air cleaner used.  Early models and FC use the flat type of cleaners and can be modified with 2-10×32 threaded holes, hex head bolts, and slightly trimming the hold-down spring.  Late-model will require 1 hole drilled and modifying or making a “J” hook as a hold-down.  Drilling the TBI will require the removal of the injector and should be accomplished before mounting.  The outside diameter of the TBI bore is 2.25″ and many aftermarket air cleaners will work.  Ensure that the air cleaner and EFI components do not touch other parts of the car (like the spare tire) during “engine rocking” from acceleration/deceleration that can cause failure.

 

Brown EFI systems are intended for off-road use only.

Revised:  March 2022